The Dark Side of Italy as a Black Woman — Read this before booking your trip!

So you’re a Black woman planning a dreamy trip to Italy? I’m gonna stop you right there. Not to kill the vibe, Sis—but to level it up. Because while IG shows you pasta, gondolas, and linen outfits with zero sweat stains, I’m here to give you the real-deal, first-hand experience: solo, Black, mid-40s, and traveling through Italy with a suitcase full of curls and curiosity.

Spoiler: You’re going to fall in love with Italy. But you need to know a few things first. Because this trip changed my life—and it's now the location of my upcoming writing retreat for women on the Amalfi Coast, October 13–20. Yes, it's that good.

How I Got to Italy (and Why It Wasn’t Rome)

I didn’t plan on Italy at first. I was trying to get the hell out of Albania—but that’s another blog, and whew chile. I wanted something romantic. Something soft. And I’d always wanted to take a ferry, so I sailed from Durrës, Albania to Bari, Italy.

Without giving too much away about Albania, as soon I crossed the line and got herded onto the ferry ran by an Italian crew, I already noticed a difference. The men (the ferry was staffed with all men and just one woman) were helpful and sexy as hell! Every…single…one…of…them. And even the passengers (mostly big rig truckers) were helpful and kind. One trucker lugged my heavy suitcase (I’ve since gotten rid of it) up and down the stairs of the ferry.

And even though we got caught in a storm at sea (Jesus took the wheel 'because I knew we were gonna die!) I would do it all over again for the thrill and again…the men.

But any who, I digress…

Most people go straight for Rome or Venice or Milan. Not me. I wanted something different. Bari sounded mysterious, and when you’re trying to escape chaos, new mystery feels like a blessing.

From Bari, I slow-traveled to Verona by train—yes, the Netflix kind of vibe. Love in the Villa had me in my feelings and I wanted to see what the soft life really looked like in Italy.

Where I Stayed

Bari - I stayed at MammaDada Charm Rooms - (https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/mammadada-charm-rooms.en-gb.html) (yes, I booked on Booking.com even though I prefer Airbnb—but this one was a gem). Clean, charming, walkable.

Verona - I stayed at Hotel Scalzi (https://www.hotelscalzi.it/en) — an adults-only, minimalist hotel that gave quiet, romantic vibes. No elevator though, so keep that in mind if you’re hauling a lot of luggage.

Both cities were incredibly affordable. And no, Italy did not break my bank. Transportation, food, hotels? All shockingly within budget. Especially food. Eat local. Find the corner spots. You’ll thank me.

As a Black Woman in Italy? I Felt Seen. And Safe.

Let me be clear: I’ve traveled to places where I felt watched. Fetishized. Invisible. Italy was not one of them.

In Bari and Verona, I felt welcomed. The women were friendly, smiling, warm, and kind. The men? CHILE. They helped me with luggage on the trains, in stations, and on sidewalks—without me asking. Always respectful. Always kind. Flirty, yes. But never invasive.

I didn’t feel othered. Didn’t feel stared at. Didn’t feel like a walking curiosity. And in a world that often doesn’t give Black women softness? That meant everything.

Let’s Talk Food: A Holy Experience

Italy reminded me that my tongue was made for joy.

Every bite? Divine. From thick slices of local pizza to desserts I still dream about. I don’t even like McDonald’s, but I tried it out of curiosity. The bread was thick, the burger dry, and that was enough of that.

But the local eats? Whew. And I had zero stomach issues, even with all that dairy, cheese, and pasta. My digestive tract said, “Yes, chef.”

Language Barriers? Not a Problem.

Most places translated to Italian, French, and English. People wanted to communicate. They tried. Some spoke perfect English. Some used gestures and smiles. I always felt understood.

Pro tip: Download Google Translate and use the camera feature for menus and signs. But honestly? You’ll be fine. We have the same words in the States so reading menus was a peace of cake…mmm…Italian cake…

Travel Tips from a Black Woman Who’s Been There

Take the train - Use Trainline (https://www.thetrainline.com/) for cheap tickets and stunning views.

Pack your hair care - Italy doesn’t carry our products in local stores (especially smaller cities), so bring your go-to leave-ins, oils, and satin wrap.

Skin felt great - had no issues with water or climate, unlike London and the surrounding area (which gave me sour body smell due to their hard water 😬). Italy felt luxurious and light.

Photograph everything - The coast, the cafes, the trains, the wine. These cities are cinematic.

Stay in small cities but with modern amenities - Big cities are fun but overhyped. Bari and Verona gave me intimacy, safety, and real connection.

And Now? I'm Going Back. With You.

Italy left such a mark on me that I’m launching a **women’s writing retreat on the Amalfi Coast** this October (13–20). If you’re a woman looking to write your story, rest, and see Italy with intention, come with me.

The retreat includes workshops, food, luxury, and sisterhood. Link here: Ink & Honey: A Writing Retreat in Italy.

Would I Recommend Italy to Black Women?

Absolutely. Especially if you go off-season. Less tourists. Connect with the locals. Italy gave me kindness, respect, flavor, and fire photo ops. I felt safe. I felt seen. I felt free. And that’s not something I say lightly.

So yes, book that flight. But don’t just go to Italy. Feel it. Eat with abandon. Walk slow. Say yes. Write. Rest. And maybe come with me this fall to the Amalfi Coast and do it in community.

So, is there a dark side to Italy? Yes, only if you never see it, never experience it, and never fully immerse yourself in the culture, the people, and the food!

And if you’re scared about going by yourself I’m also a travel companion! 1-on-1 consultations now for just $25!

Find me on Instagram and Tik Tok for more: stephanieshephard_author

www.stephanieshephard.com